Find Ethel & Colin in Iceland

Monday, September 10, 2007

Iceland is green and we understand when we get to Greenland, it will be ice! Eric the Red and the Vikings were trying to settle these stopping points across the north Atlantic and figured people would come if the name was right! Not much has changed -- marketing 101. Not so sure about that "Ice"land thing, though.

Our first visit was on Sunday to a town north of the Arctic Circle, Akeuryik. It was full of surprises. First - it was sunny and temperate, about 60 degrees. Second - There was a botanical garden filled with flora and shrubs from all over the world, even the tropics. We were delighted with the colorful flowers, the winding paths, and the ornamental pools and fountains. Third - the newer homes were wall to ceiling glass looking out on the landscape and ocean with spectacular views. Later we learned that Iceland has so much geothermal energy that electricty and thus heat is nearly free. Most shops were closed since it was a Sunday but we did climb the 1,000 steps to a lovely native stone church set high on the hill above the town. The service was in Icelandic so we didn't stay to participate. Akeuryik is at the end of a 32 mile fjiord and we left at about 4 p.m. so we had time to soak in the sights while heading back to sea. Darkness comes about 9 p.m. and daylight about 6 a.m. so we are certainly nearing the autumnal equinox.

Most of the time we have dinner in the main dining room but this ship allows for reservations at specialty restaurants. We decided to try the Italian one Sunday night and began our 16 (yes, 16!) course dinner at 6 p.m. -- finishing at about 9 p.m. Fortunately, each course is served tableside (except the entree) so you can choose the amount you want or even IF you want something. There was antipasto, calamari, salad, melon and proscuitto, soup, thin crisp pizza, ravioli, pasta noodles, crab cakes, baked ricotta cheese, vegetables, cheese, a few more we can't remember -- entree, dessert, and coffee. Slow eating, savoring the flavors, and small portions made it even possible to enjoy everything! It could be said that this meal was more "seafood" than "Italian" but who are we to quibble? We are going to the other specialty restaurant on Friday (a steak house).

The evening "entertainment" was a hypnotist and Ethel was chosen to participate in the opening "mind reading" portion which had to have a trick but was effective. Colin volunteered to be one of the subjects for hypnotism. He didn't make the cut -- was tapped to return to his seat after the first go-round but we figure the whole thing was phony anyway. It was a really dumb act! The people who stayed were either "shills" (we think) or "drunk" -- and wanted to be on stage!

Life on board has included several "happy hours" in our suite. We have enjoyed having Jocelyn & Dave visit whenever something is happening outside (like coming into or out of port). Our Walnut Creek friends and others traveling with them have come for pre-dinner conversation a couple of times and some fellow passengers we met have also been by. Tom Briscoe, the comedian Colin knows, came by Saturday and we had a great nearly three hours catching up.

Monday we awoke on the approach to Reykjavik, Iceland's capitol. Here we had a private tour of the volcano fields, lava flows, a reconstructed Viking ship which sailed from here to Newfoundland tracing the original route, downtown Reykjavik including the house where Reagan and Gorbachav met for talks, and the highlight -- a stop at the Blue Lagoon.

The waters here are blue in color because of the mineral content and they are heated from deep within the earth by thermal energy. We enjoyed an hour soak/swim/float in the healing waters. There is mud on the bottom which is used as a skin soother, curative, and foot balm. It just felt wonderful on a 32 degree day to bask in the 100 degree pool. The Icelanders have been developing the area over the past few years and a very modern changing area, showers, drying room, and tourist facility are there. Our driver was a young man from Reykjavik who was very interesting to speak with and ply with questions during our tour. He told us he used to come to the Blue Lagoon as a child when it wasn't a tourist destination and there were minimal facilities, including one changing room -- that's right, it was co-ed.

Now we leave Iceland for Greenland and will see what awaits us. Seas have been calm to moderate although it is very windy and we lost some time last night because of heading into the wind. The ship rides fairly well and even though we are a rear facing cabin, which gets bounced as much as anywhere, we have slept when in bed and stayed on our feet when we've moved around.

Find Ethel & Colin in the Faroe Islands

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Have you ever heard of the Faroe Islands? (Hint: they are not "Pharoah Islands", and not near Egypt) They are a part of Denmark! They are 18 little dots between the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The $64 dollar question is how did the Vikings ever manage to find them, land there, and begin farming and fishing and start a community?

Friday we stopped at their main city on the most inhabited island for the day. We awoke to a glorious sunny day so we had breakfast on the deck. Temperature was about 59 degrees but we were out of the wind and it was pleasant. After eating, we went down to catch a tender (boat) to the town of Torshavn, capitol of the Faroes. By now it was a little overcast, but we walked around the seaport where there were plenty of all manner of boats since this is a sailing society. Fishing is the main industry. We also climbed one of the hills to a municipal park with a war memorial and great view.

Most of Scandinavia is Lutheran but we stumbled upon a Roman Catholic Church which was open and inside were beautiful stained glass windows depicting Jesus walking on the water in the midst of a storm. Very appropriate for an area so connected with the sea.

Back on the waterfront were some very old homes painted barn red and covered with sod roofs -- the grass was very long and even had some "exotic" weeds growing in it. The streets in this part of town were narrow, cobble-stoned, and twisting. We tried to find a telephone for Colin to call his office and found this is a "one payphone town". It was out of the way, at the bus station, and after walking over there, we found out we needed a 90 Danish krona coin to access the phone before we could use the calling card! We tried getting change with US dollars but no one would do it. Not wanting to use another ATM and get more money than needed, Colin opted to forgo the call until our next port in Iceland.

The ship's captain had pre-warned us that, in the Faroes, if you don't like the weather, just wait 1/2 hour. He was right because we had left the ship in sunshine, and within a few hours were experiencing overcast, fog, mist, and then mist heavy enough to require umbrellas -- time to go back to the ship for some hot soup and coffee...................

Dinner last night was all Italian and there was a special offer of "lemon jello" (really it is "limoncello") drinks in special glasses with free refills. Our waitress (Margarita from Poland) convinced us to try them -- she is about 30 and says she drinks them in one shot. Well, not our "less young" table. Ethel managed to sip about 1/2 of hers over the course of dinner, Jocelyn really liked them and handled two while Colin thought it much too sweet after his try. But we did get a set of glasses to take home!

There has been a real logistics problem with the ship's entertainment due to missed flights, weather delays, lost luggage, etc. so during dinner last night an announcement was made that one Tom Briscoe, a comedian, would be the headliner in the theatre replacing the scheduled pianist. Colin did a double-take and said "I know him!" They had worked together in New Jersey so we headed for front row seats and, sure enough, it was the same Tom Briscoe!

Tom even used Colin & Ethel as his "subjects" since we were right next to him, and he asked Colin's name, job, and where we were from -- Colin "froze" (wondering how best to answer so Tom could figure out who he was) and Ethel answered "we live in both California and New Jersey." Well, Tom did a great act, and afterwards we spoke to him -- and then he figured out who Colin was!

In fact, Colin can now say with Mark Twain "the report of my demise was greatly exaggerated" because Tom had heard that Colin had cancer and thought he hadn't recovered. We spent an enjoyable time catching up and will see him again both casually and in another show before he leaves the ship in Newfoundland.

Tonight we cross the Arctic Circle and become official "blue-noses", the mariner's term for those who do so on ships. If the weather allows, we may also see the northern lights. Whatever we see, we'll see the sea! And we will soon be in the North Atlantic.

Find Ethel & Colin in Norway

Continued adventures while traveling on the Grand Princess, September, 2008


Tuesday's port was Bergen, Norway, and we arrived just after a period of 90 straight days of rain! Our impression, though, was of a picture-postcard town -- blue sky, sun, and moderate temperatures. There is a funicular tramway going up the local mountain and the view from the top was wonderful. Bergen has a very pretty harbor, many old buildings dating from its beginnings as a fishing port and trading center, and plenty of parks and green spaces. Ethel went to an ATM to get krona (the local currency) and pushed the button for the least amount (so she thought) and ended up with thousands! Exchange rate is about 6nk to $1. Anyway, coffee for the 4 of us was 26krona so we just spent wildly! At least we have two days in Norway in which to spend all this moolah.

Wednesday we awoke to a panoramic view of the 32 mile long fjiord we were traveling to reach the little village of Geiranger, also in Norway. Everywhere we looked were waterfalls streaming down the steep cliffs and as we ate breakfast on our balcony, we were treated to a real-life travel channel -- sort of a composite of Lake Louise (in the Canadian Rockies), and the Inland Passageway (Alaska). At Geiranger we were met by a local driver and taken on a "3 hour tour" up and down the mountains. The views were outstanding, highlighted by a recent snowfall that provided marvelous background for our photo-ops. In fact, we couldn't go to the uppermost overlook because the road was blocked by snow drifts.

Now we are crossing the North Sea again, far north, heading for the Faroe Islands (part of Denmark). In our continuing adventure we will discover how much more of the Viking exploration route is yet to come! Life on board the ship is really rough -- someone takes care of our room, does our laundry, cooks and serves our meals, and we only have to exercise, sleep, and send emails. This ship is really bigger than we like -- 2600 passengers, 1200 crew -- and this means the service is less "personal" than we have had elsewhere. But we are seeing some wonderful places that we would never see otherwise and have met some really great people, in addition to the ones we already knew.

Find Ethel & Colin on the North Sea

We are now on a cruise from Southampton to New York City aboard the Grand Princess. Joining us are our daughter and son-in-law, and a number of friends from California.


Labor Day Monday, September 3, 2007

We have left dry land and are a "ship at sea". Our last day in England we walked to the Quay at Christchurch, strolled along the beach at Friarcliff (there are rows of "huts", little one room storage places which people rent short-term or for the season. Inside can be found everything from tables filled with picnic food and drink to beach items. Some are fancy and some just hold the essentials.) We ate dinner at the local pub where a major soccer game was being televised -- the Brits were very quiet fans, not ones that talk back to the TV when a play goes good or bad -- although they did react with slight cheers when the only goal of the game was finally scored. Even though there were 40 or 50 people watching the game, it was all very civilized and reserved.

At Southampton, we dropped the car off at Hertz (Colin was in luck as the office was supposed to be closed on a Sunday but by chance an employee stopped in and handled the return, saving Colin a trip to the airport and back to the ship). Our cabin is identical to the one we had on the Panama Canal Cruise (only in mirror image) so we could settle in there fairly quickly. A tour of the ship was a different story. We have an aft facing cabin -- great view but at the far end of a ship almost 1000' long so we get to walk -- a lot! The Grand Princess has several "you can't get there from here" spots -- dead ends, "crew only" stairs, etc. So we exercised by looking for the major destinations. At least twice we headed forward when we wanted to get to our cabin and ended up having to traverse the whole length of the ship. We try not to take the elevators and walk off our meals that way and our one experience of waiting for an elevator confirmed that we made the right choice. It only took about 5 minutes to arrive and then stopped at almost every deck!

Daughter Jocelyn and son-in-law Dave came aboard about 3 p.m. as did our friends from Walnut Creek and their family and friends -- 12 in all. We invited everyone to a bon voyage party on our balcony as we left Southampton at 5 p.m. Beautiful beginning to our 16 day cruise. After dinner and the evening show, we had a visit in our cabin from the wonderful steward who was with us on the Panama Canal cruise. He regaled us with stories of his years on cruise ships and the "unique" passengers he has served. (I'm sure we are among them but, in fairness to ourselves, he did transfer to Grand Princes because he knew we were going to be on this journey -- Johnny is very special and has a unique, story telling, relationship to his "Mr. Colin".)

Spa appointments, a lecture on the Vikings and the places we will visit that were explored by them, relaxing and enjoying being pampered filled this day on the North Sea. We have passed several giant oil platforms, seen many fishing boats, and were close enough to view the coast of Denmark. During last night we sailed through the Dover channel, the narrowest and most active shipping lane in the world. It is only 21 miles from England to France and there is a steady stream of vessels. The ships HAVE to know their nautical positioning and definitely have to keep right in this tight space. All we could see were lots of lights.

The North Sea is known for being "rough" and our first night included lots of bangs from the waves, but no rock and rolling as the huge stabilizers do their job. It was hard to sleep, however, from the noise which lasted until about 4 a.m. when the seas finally calmed down. Ethel claims she took it all in stride, but the bruises on Colin's arms proved she also attempted to perform some personal "life saving" grabs of his body!

When we finish crossing the North Sea, we will make a stop in Bergen, Norway, and then in the Geiranger fjiord and the town of the same name. After those two places, we will once again cross the North Sea to the Faroe Islands. Check our next blogs for details.

Find Ethel & Colin in Southwest England

Travel through Southwest England in August, 2007


Leaving London:

The car -- a 2008 diesel Audi A6. Comfortable, automatic, easy to drive -- ah but, the one big obstacle, the shift is on the left. "Miss Ethel" is still directly behind the driver and "Mr. Colin" is adjusting well to the reverse maneuvering. Most trouble -- making a right hand turn because then it means crossing oncoming traffic and getting to the left lane. Least trouble is that it is a diesel engine and has been averaging 35-40 MPG. Yes, "Miles" per gallon; not kilometers. If you really want to be confused try this: keep to the left when you are driving; to the right when you are boating (steering wheel on the left side, in England, to really confuse us boaters); to the left when you are walking but to the right when you are on an escalator. It ain't easy until you get to the currency exchange and then it is very simple: the American dollar is so weak against the British pound that it costs us over two dollars for every one pound. Yep, a cup of coffee is $5.00 to $8.00 -- it's not Starbucks either!

Fortunately we left London on "Bank Holiday" Monday, sort of like our Labor Day Week-end. There was little traffic but our first destination, Windsor Castle, was swarming with visitors and we couldn't find a parking space in the entire city of Windsor so we saluted the Queen's digs and headed for Oxford. In that University town, there was no problem with crowds as the students from the 35 colleges that make up Oxford University, were still on break. We were able to walk around, take a ride on a slow-moving, tableau-type depiction of The Oxford Story. Disney would have shuddered but it did give good information on the history of the University, its famous scholars from scientists to theologians (United Methodist John Wesley studied here) to prime ministers (9 of them). At Christ Church College, one of the "bowler" guards (men who wear bowler hats and remind visitors and students of the rules such as not walking on the lawns) wouldn't let us in the entrance to Wesley's rooms where Ethel had been on a previous trip. He did however, flatter her beautifully while denying us entry.

Dinner was in an Irish Pub where Ethel chose fish and chips and Colin dined on Irish Stew and Australian wine. Our meals have consisted of breakfast at the hotel each day ("Full English Breakfast" provided), a stop for coffee/snack midday, and an early dinner (about 5-6 p.m.) This has worked well and we have been well satisfied. Three times we have gone to Bella Italia (a chain we found, something like Olive Garden) and Colin has had the same seafood linguini each time. He says it 's really good!

Tuesday we set off for Shakespeare country in Stratford. It was time to see where Willie came before he hit the streets of London and the Globe Theatre. We toured his birthplace, the home of his wife, Anne Hathaway, the home of his daughter, and some of the buildings that were in Stratford when he lived there. ( A little side note on old William: he was 18 when he married 26 year old Anne and she was three months "with child" at the time.) Since our last visit, 12 years ago, a new visitor's center has been added plus some upgrades to the furnishings , namely fabric on the walls indicative of the status of a well-to-do merchant which his father was.

We walked over to the Avon River where Ethel wanted to ride in a rowboat. It has a bench seat (with a back) and was very steady in the water. Only problem -- Colin would have to row for one hour . He said "I love you but my back won't take it!" We opted for a ride in a much larger tour boat with an electric motor and settled back to enjoy the tranquility on the river. Another passenger told us how only a few weeks before this entire area of England was severely flooded.

Wednesday we started the day at Blenheim Palace, the ancestral home of the Spencers (some relatives of Diana) and Churchills (Winston was born here). Beautiful setting, acres of grounds, and two tours -- one through the formal rooms (priceless paintings, exquisite furnishings, a huge library, and a Winston history section), and the other on the history of the house and the family (there are 9 generations of Dukes who have lived here) narrated by a ghost. From there we had a "lovely" drive through the Cotswolds -- small villages, all built with native pale-colored stone, in sheep country. The narrow roads were often less than a lane wide but fortunately traffic was light and we arrived safely at our hotel in Bath.

The English keep saying how sorry they are that the dollar is so weak -- but they keep taking it anyway! We just look at the prices in pounds and consider it like Disney Land -- a fun experience at any price!

It's Thursday and we are in Bath (that's "Baw-th" in English speak not "Baa-th" as we Yanks say), a wonderful town. It's been the play place of people since the Romans took to the hot waters there centuries ago. Then the aristocracy of 18th century England decided it would be a great escape from damp London and the social season from September to March moved to the area.

Many, many apartment houses were built, the upper crust came in droves, and paraded through the town, shopped, drank the vile-tasting mineral water, and lived the life style of the rich and famous. They built gaming houses, parks, theatres, and the Pump Room where they listened to classical music while having "Tea". They didn't go much for exercise though as they used sedan chairs carried by porters to take them to the bath (hot springs) where they soaked for 3 hours, then ate a dry biscuit invented by a local doctor which was supposed to have curative powers, and then went back to dress for seeing and being seen the rest of the day. There was dancing in the evening so they must have gotten their exercise that way.

We took the on/off bus tour around town, walked through some of the long-term apartment arrangements (very classy even though they came furnished), visited the Roman baths (a major temple was here as well as the rooms for the baths -- warm, warmer, warmest, HOT, tepid, cold -- massage parlors, steam rooms, etc. -- those Romans knew how to relax). We had tea in the Pump Room (after tasting the waters - ugh!), very elegant and we drank, pinkies up, of course, while listening to the string quartet.

Great restaurants -- we ate one night at Tilly's (French) and the other at Sally Lunn's (a famous baker who invented Sally Lunn bread). Both excellent and on the Brodie recommended list. Since we ate before 7 p.m. we qualified for the Early Bird Special -- two courses for £10. ($20.). At Sally Lunn's this even included a glass of wine! (Are we now officially "senior citizens" going for the early bird specials? Oh, no! England calls their seniors "concessionaires" -- sounds like we own some catering business -- and we have to remember to ask for that price at admissions or on busses.)

The Avon River runs through Bath and Porteney bridge crosses it which contains shops and homes -- a very unusual occurance in Britain. There are a couple of similar ones in Italy. Lovely strolling scenery, the Bath Abbey church is awesome, we met some wonderful people from Scotland with whom we spent a great evening discussing everything in the world (literally!). So all in all, we enjoyed Bath!

Left there and drove to the "stack of rocks" known as Stonehenge. It's still an amazing sight to ponder the "why" as has been done through the ages. Nothing else like it anywhere, so it was worth seeing. Ethel had been there 29 years ago on her first English trip and new are the headphones which tell what is known and what is speculated about the rocks. Can't go up to them any more but we walked all around the circumference.

Then it was onward across the plain to Salisbury Cathedral. Lots of traffic in this southern part of England, maybe it's because it is Friday and the week-end escape has begun. Colin maneuvered well through all the round-abouts, and got us to a car park next to the cathedral. Only £6 ($12) fee! But we were close AND we got a free cup of coffee in the cafeteria AND 10% off purchases in the gift shop -- so we got some of it back. The 150' spire is awesome and the stone work on the front is filled with carvings of saints, kings, and filigree. The Magna Carta was signed near here and it was brought to the church for safe-keeping and they still have the best preserved copy of this historic document (we read the guidebook -- the nobles forced King John to give rights of justice to everyone, hence the beginning of democracy or at least the end of the absolute monarchy).

We are now in Christchurch and doing some necessary catch-up before boarding our ship tomorrow in Southampton. They let us join the local library so we could use their computers, a nice touch. Ethel used one in Bath and paid £1.80 for 15 minutes. This one is free to members! What a deal!

Find Ethel & Colin in London, England

Trip taken in August, 2007

Day 1

Cheerio from Jolly Old England! If you want a truly decadent experience, just take the Virgin Atlantic "upper class" flight to London. Our 10 hour journey seemed like a friendly little pajama party with the 8 passengers all wearing Virgin Atlantic black pj's, sharing the 2 bathrooms, each having a "pod" area which was made up into a flat bed (with cushioned pad) by the flight attendant. The two of us shared our dinners on a table set up in Ethel's "pod"; we could have had a massage if we hadn't been asleep when the masseuse came around! Such is life with frequent flyer miles! Colin says maybe it is worth the monthly bills which earn mileage points.

Not only was the flight a treat, but prior to boarding we spent time in the Virgin Atlantic lounge at San Francisco airport (the best one we've ever been in) which offered a meal or light dining. Fortunately we ate light and saved room for our "real" dinner later.

Our flight arrived early and we cleared customs quickly, only to discover our ride wasn't there! The driver did eventually arrive and drove us to the Aster House hotel (which sister-in-law Biki had recommended), a row house in South Kensington. Location is great, near the Underground, and with neighborhood stores and restaurants nearby.

Our first destination (after a nap) was to visit the Queen. Now she wasn't home, but unlike our visit last year to Brodie Castle, in Scotland, they did let us in. We viewed all the formal rooms, a display on the royal wedding (Elizabeth & Philip's in 1947), and plenty of opulance. We then trooped across the royal garden in the rain when we exited. True English weather but we were assured it was going to be fine this week-end.

We ate in a real English pub, and enjoyed the ambiance and the food. Our neighborhood has several eateries ranging from the pub to Middle Eastern to Chinese to Starbucks! Many choices.

Day 2

Second day we started with the War Rooms which Churchill used during WWII and a museum on his life. Fascinating memorabilia but in true British fashion -- that is, not exactly easy to follow. We wandered around the museum in a more or less random order but got the gist of the story. From there we headed to Westminster Abbey; toured the beautiful church and viewed the memorials to dead kings, queens, poets, and people with money to buy their final resting place.

Nearby is the Thames River and we settled in for a cruise to see the sights. It was amazing how many new buildings had gone up since our last cruise on the Thames, 12 years ago. We were now over any "jet lag" and beginning to relax and enjoy the London experience.

We have passes for the Underground (subway) and we have become adept at using it to get wherever we need to go. Our next stop was the British Museum (which has a new entry area since we were last there). We once again checked out the Rosetta Stone, and are now certain we can translate all Egyptian hieroglyphics (sure we can -- ha, ha). We also saw the Elgin Marbles which were missing from the Acropolis when we were in Athens. So that's what the Greeks are fussing about! And we totally enjoyed the African section -- in anticipation of our upcoming January trip to Tanzania, Victoria Falls, Zanzibar and Cape Town.

Then it was on to the theatre and the Muppet musical for adults -- "Avenue Q." Clever/R-rated/with a message on relationships, that ended up being very timely and helpful to Ethel and Colin!

London is busy right now, lots of tourists although not an abundance of Americans -- God bless the Queen, but what are we going to do about the weak dollar?

Day 3

Well, we spoke too soon yesterday when we said we had the Underground figured out. This morning we felt like the old Kingston Trio song -- "Oh, they'll never return, no they'll never return, and their fate is still unlearned, they will ride forever 'neath the streets of London, they're the ones who never returned." We were with some people from Perth, Australia, going back and forth on trunk lines out of Earl's Court station -- managing to through that station "4" times! Finally the engineer came into the car and told us when to get off (again), change trains (again), and then by some miracle, we made it (at last) to our destination!

After Churchill's War Rooms yesterday, today we toured the "Battle of Britain Experience" which featured rooms filled with memorabilia from WWII. Since we both like history, it was interesting. They had a bomb shelter made with a tin roof which shuddered when the simulated air raid took place, and there was a "blitz" dramatization that was surreal. Many hardships and plenty of destruction on British soil during that time. May we never have to go through anything like it again.

Next stop was the Vinopolis, a tour of wine around the world with 5 tastings included. Colin tried a few but didn't like too many and Ethel only tried one -- a standard Reisling that she knew she would like. There were, however, many videos of wine regions and we watched the one on South Africa as we will have the opportunity to visit there during our January trip. The tour guide at Vinopolis told us the area is spectacularly beautiful and really a treat to see, even if we don't like the wines. She was from Melbourne so we had a delightful conversation about that area of the world. London is filled with workers from all over, especially the EU countries. We found this to be true last year in Ireland also. Many come from former British colonies (like Australia) because the jobs are better in England. It is expensive to live here however, as right now the pound (Brits are not on the Euro like the rest of Europe) costs over $2.00 in American money (the Euro would only cost about $1.50). But there is still plenty of work and people keep coming.

Transportation continued to challenge us today and we ended up walking more than we had intended, which tested our limits. The weather, however, was a "10": sunny, warm (75), and clear. Everyone in London and all the visitors were out and so we had crowds everywhere. We walked along the Thames to the Shakespeare Theatre only to find out we were too late for today's tour so we will go back tomorrow. Ethel walked through the museum district near our hotel and tried to tour the Royal Albert Hall (like Carnegie Hall in NYC) but they were having a concert and she missed the last tour there, too!

We still have tomorrow to do several planned activities and we WILL do better on the Underground!


Day 4

A question -- is there anybody working in London who is from England? It seems everyone we meet is from somewhere else -- Venezuela, Washington, DC, Australia, Germany, Italy, Africa, India etc. London truly is a melting pot and the languages on the Underground are like a mini-United Nations. Another beautiful day and just right for our tourist destinations: First to the reconstructed Globe Theatre of Shakespeare which is open air with three tiers of 1600 seats and standing room for 700! The exterior has a thatched roof and the interior looks like the movie set from "Shakespeare in Love", although we discovered it was not filmed here but on a Hollywood set. Many interesting facts about the history of this theatre, but one of note: the theatre was seen as a place of "sin" and nice women didn' t go there. If the men got bored with the performance, there were ladies known as "white geese" who had white powdered faces, wore white aprons, and waved white handkerchiefs to let it be known that they would provide "alternate" entertainment.

It seems that the millenium project called the "London Eye" has turned into a major tourist attraction. It was built (not unlike the Eiffel Tower) to be a temporary structure to commemorate the year 2000. But the draw has been so great, and we can attest to the crowds and huge lines waiting to board, that it has been granted continuation for at least 20 more years. We had Fast Track tickets, thank goodness (there is something to be said for booking on-line ahead of time) and had a very brief wait unlike those who bought tickets today who were waiting a couple of hours. The continually revolving giagantic farris wheel, with "enclosed gondola cars", takes 30 minutes to circle with spectacular views of London. We opted to take one with a guide (from Venezuela) who described what we were seeing -- along with an after ride personal discussion about current Venezuelan politics.

A quick stop at the very neat London Aquarium which Colin likened to his snorkeling adventures. There were fish from all of the world's areas, most fascinating a land/water fish from Africa -- it actually breathes for short periods and has fins that can double as legs.

Each time we walk from the Underground to our hotel, we pass several car dealers and Colin is now convinced that he wants a Lamborghini silver convertible. It is "only" 155,000 pounds (about $320,00.) Ethel decided we might get two! (Ha!) This is our last day in London as tomorrow (Monday) we pick up our car and head for the countryside. Unfortunately we go back to driving with "a hope and a prayer" -- due to driving on the left side of the road! But again, we have a GPS "Colleen" to guide us! One other advantage for Ethel will be that she will be positioned in the backseat directly behind Colin, as was the case in Ireland and Scotland. She figures the survival rate* will be much better there as she will be unable to see the road ahead and therefore will not "explain or gasp to Colin the pitfails that lie ahead". Because of this Colin is much less likely to commit murder (*ergo the better survival rate!)

Find Ethel & Colin in the California Deserts

Trip taken October, 2007

Did you know there are more deserts in the State of California than anywhere else in the world? Not the largest, but the most. We just returned from traveling through two of them -- the Mojave and the Colorado. Along the way we saw amazing formations of sand, stone, minerals, and plant life.

Overall, our journey reminded us that water is the stuff of life which is especially noticeable when spending so much time traveling in and through the California desert region. (Here is where Colin, the Californian, begins bragging about the beauty of "his" state -- after all, he says, someone has to say something good about it!)

Our first image of water's power was in Yosemite National Park where glaciers carved the land into amazing shapes. We drove over Tioga Pass with its spectacular views and vistas eventually dropping down the eastern slope of the Sierras into the Owens Valley. The Owens Valley had once been filled with apple orchards but in the 1920's a canal was built to supply Los Angeles with water and by the 1940's the valley had become a desolate desert where winds and sand blow all the time. Here we stopped at the Japanese Interment Camp at Manzanar which is a reminder of the reaction to the fears of our country in World War II. The only building remaining is the former auditorium building which the National Park Service has outfitted with interpretive exhibits, a book store, and collected keepsakes which have been donated or unearthed on the site. Since our last visit, we had read the book Snow Falling on Cedars and so we had a new appreciation for the Manzanar experience.

Just down the road is Lone Pine, California, a charming town where we had stayed previously and where we planned on visiting the Western Movie Museum which recently opened. Unfortunately, the owner met us in the parking lot and told us they were closing in 5 minutes and would not be open the next day (Tuesday). So we have to make another trip to this area! Many Westerns were filmed in the Alabama Hills area west of town. There is a route map noting specific movie locations and it was fun to drive around searching for familiar scenes.

In Downtown Lone Pine, on the Main Street (also known as Highway 395) is the Seasons restaurant which serves up great meals and boasts a bartender who makes outstanding Lemon Drop martinis. The October days were ideal travel and we even found that for the first time in four visits to this area the weather was clear enough that we were able to view Mt. Whitney (14,495 feet tall making it the tallest point in the Continental U.S. -- a reminder from Californian Colin again). As we were leaving Lone Pine, we passed a real cattle drive, complete with cowboys on horses and dogs shepherding the cows to keep them moving. The Wild West has come to life!

Our drive to Death Valley took us through the Panamint Valley and the vast area that is desert because of the lack of water. Once this area was all an inland sea but that dried up centuries ago leaving interesting geologic features. Death Valley itself is awesomely beautiful and water makes the difference in where life is able to be sustained. Scotty's Castle (built by Chicago millionaire banker, Albert Johnson) is placed where it is because of a water course which the owner/engineer used to power everything from electricity to plumbing to machinery. He built a mansion with all modern (for the 1920's) conveniences all because he was able to harness water. Previously we had toured the house with a "Living History" guide. This visit we took the underground tour which focused on the machinery and huge tunnels which lie beneath the main buildings. Thus the eccentric builder was able to carry on work no matter the outside temperature or conditions. We arrived at the area about 15 minutes before the tour was set to begin and were able to purchase tickets immediately. There were slightly longer waits for the main house tour.

Our lodging for two days was the Furnace Creek Inn, located in an oasis watered by underground springs. There we enjoyed the cool garden and refreshing swimming pool in which to swim (although the water temperature is 82 degrees and the air temperature was 85 so it was like diving into a bathtub). We took several drives around the National Park viewing the desert from many vantage points -- as high as 5,000 plus feet above (Dante's View) to 282 feet below sea level (lowest point in the U.S. and almost the lowest in the world -- enough already from the California contingent). We toured the Borax museum with relics from the days when 20 mule teams took the boran out of the valley in huge wagons . There is even a golf course which we intend to play on our next visit. The presence of water does amazing things!

Leaving Death Valley, we traveled through the Mojave Desert -- vast and covered with desert plants (we appreciated the National Park Service signs telling us what we were seeing because we are not much at remembering our botany). In the midst of all this open space, punctuated by looming mountains, we came upon a huge railroad station in the town of Kelso. Now the Visitor Center for Mojave National Preserve, the station has been fully refurbished and provides a glimpse into the days when trains were the major means of transportation both for people and for freight. Kelso became an important stop because it had water, badly needed by the trains traveling through this desert country, and the stop allowed trains to take on a special, extra large, locomotive to climb the mountains to the west. Train crews used the hotel portion of the station for rest periods and passengers were able to stop for a meal or just a break while the train was serviced and watered. We appreciated the break from our desert wanderings, too.

We continued on our southern journey heading into Joshua Tree National Park with its colorful rock formations and acres of the desert dweller Joshua Tree. This plant holds a special place in the integrated world of the desert. It shades other plants, offers a home for small animals, and collects rain water for later use. While seeing all this beauty and traveling through so many National Parks, we were again reminded of how blessed we are to have the Lifetime National Parks Pass (available to those who reach age 62 for only $10.) It is the best bargain in America.

Joshua Tree National Park provides the dividing line between the Mojave and the Colorado Desert (lower in elevation than the Mojave and thus hosting different plants and animals). We maneuvered down the winding roads, eventually reaching the Coachella Valley. Immediately evident were the housing and resort communities which have turned the desert into a green, flourishing, flower-covered oasis. All of it due to water -- the stuff of life. (As a side note, this growth area, along with many like it in California, Nevada and Arizona are responsible for much of the Western U.S.'s concern with a future lack of water.)

After heading east for a few miles, we toured General George Patton's desert training camp where troops in WWII were taught survival in preparation for going to fight in North Africa. Patton tapped into the Los Angeles water canal because he knew his troops would need that precious water. When questioned where he got the authority, he said "I did it, now you figure out how to fill out the proper request forms!" Possibly this facility should have been utilized over the past 15 years or so for our current desert training needs!!! The museum contains a vast array of items pertaining to Patton, various branches of the military, local history, and the wars in which the U.S. has been involved. Outside is a collection of tanks and military vehicles, although none can be entered or climbed upon.

All through this trip we have been aware of the raging fires in Southern California. When we entered the Coachella Valley after leaving Joshua Tree National Park, heading for Palm Desert, we immediately were struck by the smoke which filled the valley as the winds had shifted and were now blowing east. With the super dry conditions of this summer, the fires were so fierce. We feel for those who lost homes, lives, and hope. Once again we see how much we need water in this desert land.

Palm Desert has a unique spot called "The Living Desert"

which is part museum, part animal park, part botanical garden, and part model railroad. Each segment is fascinating and it was a perfect spot to end our desert adventures. Here we could walk through the flora of the Mojave, the Colorado, Sonoran, and Chihuahuan deserts and observe their differences. There were desert animals from the Americas and from Africa. The model railroad covered a huge area and was fascinating to watch as several trains looped around scenic regions depicting places in the American West.

This desert trip was a reminder of the precious commodity we call water. We drank a lot of it, wore plenty of sunscreen, and took only pictures. Our California deserts are wondrous places.