Trip taken October, 2007
Did you know there are more deserts in the State of California than anywhere else in the world? Not the largest, but the most. We just returned from traveling through two of them -- the Mojave and the Colorado. Along the way we saw amazing formations of sand, stone, minerals, and plant life.
Overall, our journey reminded us that water is the stuff of life which is especially noticeable when spending so much time traveling in and through the California desert region. (Here is where Colin, the Californian, begins bragging about the beauty of "his" state -- after all, he says, someone has to say something good about it!)
Our first image of water's power was in Yosemite National Park where glaciers carved the land into amazing shapes. We drove over Tioga Pass with its spectacular views and vistas eventually dropping down the eastern slope of the Sierras into the Owens Valley. The Owens Valley had once been filled with apple orchards but in the 1920's a canal was built to supply Los Angeles with water and by the 1940's the valley had become a desolate desert where winds and sand blow all the time. Here we stopped at the Japanese Interment Camp at Manzanar which is a reminder of the reaction to the fears of our country in World War II. The only building remaining is the former auditorium building which the National Park Service has outfitted with interpretive exhibits, a book store, and collected keepsakes which have been donated or unearthed on the site. Since our last visit, we had read the book Snow Falling on Cedars and so we had a new appreciation for the Manzanar experience.
Just down the road is Lone Pine, California, a charming town where we had stayed previously and where we planned on visiting the Western Movie Museum which recently opened. Unfortunately, the owner met us in the parking lot and told us they were closing in 5 minutes and would not be open the next day (Tuesday). So we have to make another trip to this area! Many Westerns were filmed in the Alabama Hills area west of town. There is a route map noting specific movie locations and it was fun to drive around searching for familiar scenes.
In Downtown Lone Pine, on the Main Street (also known as Highway 395) is the Seasons restaurant which serves up great meals and boasts a bartender who makes outstanding Lemon Drop martinis. The October days were ideal travel and we even found that for the first time in four visits to this area the weather was clear enough that we were able to view Mt. Whitney (14,495 feet tall making it the tallest point in the Continental U.S. -- a reminder from Californian Colin again). As we were leaving Lone Pine, we passed a real cattle drive, complete with cowboys on horses and dogs shepherding the cows to keep them moving. The Wild West has come to life!
Our drive to Death Valley took us through the Panamint Valley and the vast area that is desert because of the lack of water. Once this area was all an inland sea but that dried up centuries ago leaving interesting geologic features. Death Valley itself is awesomely beautiful and water makes the difference in where life is able to be sustained.
Scotty's Castle (built by Chicago millionaire banker, Albert Johnson) is placed where it is because of a water course which the owner/engineer used to power everything from electricity to plumbing to machinery. He built a mansion with all modern (for the 1920's) conveniences all because he was able to harness water. Previously we had toured the house with a "Living History" guide. This visit we took the underground tour which focused on the machinery and huge tunnels which lie beneath the main buildings. Thus the eccentric builder was able to carry on work no matter the outside temperature or conditions. We arrived at the area about 15 minutes before the tour was set to begin and were able to purchase tickets immediately. There were slightly longer waits for the main house tour. 
Our lodging for two days was the Furnace Creek Inn, located in an oasis watered by underground springs. There we enjoyed the cool garden and refreshing swimming pool in which to swim (although the water temperature is 82 degrees and the air temperature was 85 so it was like diving into a bathtub). We took several drives around the National Park viewing the desert from many vantage points -- as high as 5,000 plus feet above (Dante's View) to 282 feet below sea level (lowest point in the U.S. and almost the lowest in the world -- enough already from the California contingent). We toured the Borax museum with relics from the days when 20 mule teams took the boran out of the valley in huge wagons . There is even a golf course which we intend to play on our next visit. The presence of water does amazing things!
Leaving Death Valley, we traveled through the Mojave Desert -- vast and covered with desert plants (we appreciated the National Park Service signs telling us what we were seeing because we are not much at remembering our botany). In the midst of all this open space, punctuated by looming mountains, we came upon a huge railroad station in the town of Kelso.
Now the Visitor Center for Mojave National Preserve, the station has been fully refurbished and provides a glimpse into the days when trains were the major means of transportation both for people and for freight. Kelso became an important stop because it had water, badly needed by the trains traveling through this desert country, and the stop allowed trains to take on a special, extra large, locomotive to climb the mountains to the west. Train crews used the hotel portion of the station for rest periods and passengers were able to stop for a meal or just a break while the train was serviced and watered. We appreciated the break from our desert wanderings, too.
We continued on our southern journey heading into Joshua Tree National Park with its colorful rock formations and acres of the desert dweller Joshua Tree. This plant holds a special place in the integrated world of the desert. It shades other plants, offers a home for small animals, and collects rain water for later use. While seeing all this beauty and traveling through so many National Parks, we were again reminded of how blessed we are to have the Lifetime National Parks Pass (available to those who reach age 62 for only $10.) It is the best bargain in America.
Joshua Tree National Park provides the dividing line between the Mojave and the Colorado Desert (lower in elevation than the Mojave and thus hosting different plants and animals). We maneuvered down the winding roads, eventually reaching the Coachella Valley. Immediately evident were the housing and resort communities which have turned the desert into a green, flourishing, flower-covered oasis. All of it due to water -- the stuff of life. (As a side note, this growth area, along with many like it in California, Nevada and Arizona are responsible for much of the Western U.S.'s concern with a future lack of water.)
After heading east for a few miles, we toured General George Patton's desert training camp where troops in WWII were taught survival in preparation for going to fight in North Africa. Patton tapped into the Los Angeles water canal because he knew his troops would need that precious water. When questioned where he got the authority, he said "I did it, now you figure out how to fill out the proper request forms!" Possibly this facility should have been utilized over the past 15 years or so for our current desert training needs!!! The museum contains a vast array of items pertaining to Patton, various branches of the military, local history, and the wars in which the U.S. has been involved. Outside is a collection of tanks and military vehicles, although none can be entered or climbed upon.
All through this trip we have been aware of the raging fires in Southern California. When we entered the Coachella Valley after leaving Joshua Tree National Park, heading for Palm Desert, we immediately were struck by the smoke which filled the valley as the winds had shifted and were now blowing east. With the super dry conditions of this summer, the fires were so fierce. We feel for those who lost homes, lives, and hope. Once again we see how much we need water in this desert land.
Palm Desert has a unique spot called "The Living Desert"
Did you know there are more deserts in the State of California than anywhere else in the world? Not the largest, but the most. We just returned from traveling through two of them -- the Mojave and the Colorado. Along the way we saw amazing formations of sand, stone, minerals, and plant life.
Overall, our journey reminded us that water is the stuff of life which is especially noticeable when spending so much time traveling in and through the California desert region. (Here is where Colin, the Californian, begins bragging about the beauty of "his" state -- after all, he says, someone has to say something good about it!)
Our first image of water's power was in Yosemite National Park where glaciers carved the land into amazing shapes. We drove over Tioga Pass with its spectacular views and vistas eventually dropping down the eastern slope of the Sierras into the Owens Valley. The Owens Valley had once been filled with apple orchards but in the 1920's a canal was built to supply Los Angeles with water and by the 1940's the valley had become a desolate desert where winds and sand blow all the time. Here we stopped at the Japanese Interment Camp at Manzanar which is a reminder of the reaction to the fears of our country in World War II. The only building remaining is the former auditorium building which the National Park Service has outfitted with interpretive exhibits, a book store, and collected keepsakes which have been donated or unearthed on the site. Since our last visit, we had read the book Snow Falling on Cedars and so we had a new appreciation for the Manzanar experience.
Just down the road is Lone Pine, California, a charming town where we had stayed previously and where we planned on visiting the Western Movie Museum which recently opened. Unfortunately, the owner met us in the parking lot and told us they were closing in 5 minutes and would not be open the next day (Tuesday). So we have to make another trip to this area! Many Westerns were filmed in the Alabama Hills area west of town. There is a route map noting specific movie locations and it was fun to drive around searching for familiar scenes.
In Downtown Lone Pine, on the Main Street (also known as Highway 395) is the Seasons restaurant which serves up great meals and boasts a bartender who makes outstanding Lemon Drop martinis. The October days were ideal travel and we even found that for the first time in four visits to this area the weather was clear enough that we were able to view Mt. Whitney (14,495 feet tall making it the tallest point in the Continental U.S. -- a reminder from Californian Colin again). As we were leaving Lone Pine, we passed a real cattle drive, complete with cowboys on horses and dogs shepherding the cows to keep them moving. The Wild West has come to life!
Our drive to Death Valley took us through the Panamint Valley and the vast area that is desert because of the lack of water. Once this area was all an inland sea but that dried up centuries ago leaving interesting geologic features. Death Valley itself is awesomely beautiful and water makes the difference in where life is able to be sustained.
Scotty's Castle (built by Chicago millionaire banker, Albert Johnson) is placed where it is because of a water course which the owner/engineer used to power everything from electricity to plumbing to machinery. He built a mansion with all modern (for the 1920's) conveniences all because he was able to harness water. Previously we had toured the house with a "Living History" guide. This visit we took the underground tour which focused on the machinery and huge tunnels which lie beneath the main buildings. Thus the eccentric builder was able to carry on work no matter the outside temperature or conditions. We arrived at the area about 15 minutes before the tour was set to begin and were able to purchase tickets immediately. There were slightly longer waits for the main house tour. 
Our lodging for two days was the Furnace Creek Inn, located in an oasis watered by underground springs. There we enjoyed the cool garden and refreshing swimming pool in which to swim (although the water temperature is 82 degrees and the air temperature was 85 so it was like diving into a bathtub). We took several drives around the National Park viewing the desert from many vantage points -- as high as 5,000 plus feet above (Dante's View) to 282 feet below sea level (lowest point in the U.S. and almost the lowest in the world -- enough already from the California contingent). We toured the Borax museum with relics from the days when 20 mule teams took the boran out of the valley in huge wagons . There is even a golf course which we intend to play on our next visit. The presence of water does amazing things!
Leaving Death Valley, we traveled through the Mojave Desert -- vast and covered with desert plants (we appreciated the National Park Service signs telling us what we were seeing because we are not much at remembering our botany). In the midst of all this open space, punctuated by looming mountains, we came upon a huge railroad station in the town of Kelso.
Now the Visitor Center for Mojave National Preserve, the station has been fully refurbished and provides a glimpse into the days when trains were the major means of transportation both for people and for freight. Kelso became an important stop because it had water, badly needed by the trains traveling through this desert country, and the stop allowed trains to take on a special, extra large, locomotive to climb the mountains to the west. Train crews used the hotel portion of the station for rest periods and passengers were able to stop for a meal or just a break while the train was serviced and watered. We appreciated the break from our desert wanderings, too.We continued on our southern journey heading into Joshua Tree National Park with its colorful rock formations and acres of the desert dweller Joshua Tree. This plant holds a special place in the integrated world of the desert. It shades other plants, offers a home for small animals, and collects rain water for later use. While seeing all this beauty and traveling through so many National Parks, we were again reminded of how blessed we are to have the Lifetime National Parks Pass (available to those who reach age 62 for only $10.) It is the best bargain in America.
Joshua Tree National Park provides the dividing line between the Mojave and the Colorado Desert (lower in elevation than the Mojave and thus hosting different plants and animals). We maneuvered down the winding roads, eventually reaching the Coachella Valley. Immediately evident were the housing and resort communities which have turned the desert into a green, flourishing, flower-covered oasis. All of it due to water -- the stuff of life. (As a side note, this growth area, along with many like it in California, Nevada and Arizona are responsible for much of the Western U.S.'s concern with a future lack of water.)
After heading east for a few miles, we toured General George Patton's desert training camp where troops in WWII were taught survival in preparation for going to fight in North Africa. Patton tapped into the Los Angeles water canal because he knew his troops would need that precious water. When questioned where he got the authority, he said "I did it, now you figure out how to fill out the proper request forms!" Possibly this facility should have been utilized over the past 15 years or so for our current desert training needs!!! The museum contains a vast array of items pertaining to Patton, various branches of the military, local history, and the wars in which the U.S. has been involved. Outside is a collection of tanks and military vehicles, although none can be entered or climbed upon.
All through this trip we have been aware of the raging fires in Southern California. When we entered the Coachella Valley after leaving Joshua Tree National Park, heading for Palm Desert, we immediately were struck by the smoke which filled the valley as the winds had shifted and were now blowing east. With the super dry conditions of this summer, the fires were so fierce. We feel for those who lost homes, lives, and hope. Once again we see how much we need water in this desert land.
Palm Desert has a unique spot called "The Living Desert"
which is part museum, part animal park, part botanical garden, and part model railroad. Each segment is fascinating and it was a perfect spot to end our desert adventures. Here we could walk through the flora of the Mojave, the Colorado, Sonoran, and Chihuahuan deserts and observe their differences. There were desert animals from the Americas and from Africa. The model railroad covered a huge area and was fascinating to watch as several trains looped around scenic regions depicting places in the American West.This desert trip was a reminder of the precious commodity we call water. We drank a lot of it, wore plenty of sunscreen, and took only pictures. Our California deserts are wondrous places.
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